Riding on my fear

It's early morning on a sandy beach in Uluwatu
we'd reached a surfer's gem; it is known as too

Choosing trust over fear, I hush all the voices

And decide to follow what my trainer advises 

Having surfed the internet for ridiculous treats

And surfed the windows of fashion high streets  

It was time to steal a break from this territory

And dip into something that’d float in memory

Lying on the board with the wave behind me,

I prepare myself to perform the steps to the T

‘Now’, he shouts. My limbs spring into action

as the wave lifts me up over the Indian ocean

I push off the board, pull in my legs sans dance

then slide through my hands to get that stance

And voila ... 

I was riding on it!!! A long, gentle, blue wave

standing gingerly on the longboard they gave

My balance and confidence intact, I further rise

nudging myself to glance ahead at the paradise

A suntanned stretch surrounded by lush greens
soakin' in the water, waking up to party scenes

A surge of sheer happiness took over my heart 

After five failed attempts, I had cracked the art

As we drew closer to the shore, the tide eased

I let myself fall into the ocean, utterly pleased

Those three and a half seconds are now etched

as a feat that I guess, no fad could have fetched